Aquanaria

Aquanaria

Sunday, 11 October 2009

Strengths and weaknesses of fish stock assessment techniques

A few years ago my fascination with the internet started when i produced my own fisheries management website. Being a fisheries scientist at heart it was based mainly around capture fisheries and inland fisheries consultancy that at the time was my vocation. I wrote many pieces that are still on the net and viewed by around 70000 people a year. This piece, however, is worthy of a re-load as its relevance is still current. I apologise if it gets a little scientific in places, but please bear with it as it will give a great insight into just how difficult it is to calculate stock levels and issue quotas.


Accurate stock assessment is of growing importance as the human population and demand for fish increases. Continued technological advances in fishing fleets increase efficiency directly effecting natural fish stocks. Attempting to match natural stock fluctuation with fishing effort may help to avoid any further long term damage of exploited species; this is of great importance as fish provide vital contributions to food supplies and influence employment in coastal areas.

Various methods are applied to calculate estimates of recruitment, stock sizes, and age groups. It is apparent that stock assessment techniques are highly dependent on available data, whether long or short-term predictions are the aim, both strengths and weaknesses are influenced by the abundance of this information. For correct predictions many techniques require large inputs of unbiased data, therefore the strength of any stock biomass prediction will be influenced by the weakness of the available inputs; validating final modal estimates of a fishery.

Rose (1997) offers another view for these problems, indicating that fisheries scientists have lost track of their science by becoming 'keyboard ecologists' whom rarely, if ever work directly with real fisheries. This of course does not reflect on the collection of fisheries data but more the interpretation and wisdom required to gain results. This diversion may lead to incorrect long-term analysis; potentially undermining fishery techniques, therefore it is crucial that all stakeholders in a fishery increase an understanding and trust in stock assessment procedures (Anon 1998).

Cortes's (1998) study of shark stock assessment concluded no accurate results could be gained without increased collections of biological and fishery data, coinciding with a better understanding of stock recruitment relationships. Many fisheries are in dire straits due to data collection leaving them with a retrospective problem for stocks. This is pinpointed by Mohn (1999), who studied data on the East Scotian Shelf cod fishery. He concludes that failure to correct the problems encountered by traditional analysis techniques, leads to catch level advice twice or more the intended level. Stock and recruitment data sets should not be published or used unless estimates of error variance are shown; without this information Walters & Ludwig (1981) believe they are meaningless and misleading.

Data types can be split into two groups, dependent or independent of the fishery. Fishery dependent data comprises of four usable types, the total catch, amount of fishing, (the combination known as) catch per unit effort (CPUE) and age or size compositions.

Catch data is essential for most stock production models, inaccurate or biased collection can have damaging long term effects. Importantly, this data should be totalled over ages, fleets, and nations with longer term information helping to predict the past life of the fishery.

Problems arise with data collection as some fleet members find financial rewards in discarding initial catches, searching for larger or higher valued cohorts. When total catches are calculated these discarded fish that obviously made up part of the initial stock are rarely accounted for. The result can be higher biomass predictions, thus allocation of total allowable catches are higher than the available stock. This incorrect estimation of stocks can result in either continued over exploitation or economic hardship when quotas are cut. Some models include discard data, but as Mesnil (1996) points out, the general assumption is that all discards die even though there is proof that in some fisheries (usually shellfish) a significant fraction are able to survive. Either way the incorrect analysis of discarded fish will result in wrong estimates of the fishery.

The 'amount of fishing' or 'effort data' on its own is less important to fishery scientists unlike economists who study activity trends. The collection of days fished at sea and number of boats operating in conjunction with the previously mentioned catch data is much more valuable. This information known as catch per unit effort (CPUE), if based on age and composition, can be a very important factor in fisheries modelling. Effort based production models (PM) use this catch effort data with catches recorded in weight, in an attempt to estimate parameters as a stock production curve. They also assume that effort is closely related to fishing mortality (Kimura et al. 1984).

When writers such as Roff (1983) suggest the catch/effort data is only reliable to detect major fluctuations in population size and "attempts to determine equilibrium yields from catch/effort data are as likely to be successful as finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow", doubts over the strengths of models using CPUE data must arise. Collie & Sissenwine (1983) were more liberal in their views but still express difficulties in the standardising of CPUE data from commercial and recreational fisheries. They pinpoint the of 'constant catchability coefficients' and continued 'technical improvements' as the main areas for biased data.

Many models rely on accurate age, length, and age-length calculations of a stock. The difficult nature of collecting this data probably has the most influence hence the most accurate sources are usually from survey vessels. If capable industry collects this data, but usually samples are taken from the catch when landed; the two usual techniques of ageing these fish are via scale and otolith readings. Otolith ageing is less adaptable to a fishery wide sampling program than scale readings, due to the difficult and time-consuming nature of collection. Otolith morphology has also been shown to be an effective tool for stock discrimination in certain species (Freidland and Reddin 1994).

Independent data collection via fishing surveys helps limitations apparent from actual fishery dependent data. As with commercial methods, variable catches and weather conditions affect surveys; technical influences such as mesh size and vessel efficiency may not coincide with actual fleet averages. Changes in vessel efficiency or shifts in effort may not accurately reflect trends of abundance or fishing mortality. Therefore, in the determining of age structures, growth, mortality rates and historical trends, survey techniques may provide the only basis of data collection (Clark 1979). Simplistic assumptions that areas have been swept clean of fish, and common assumptions that trawls are giving unbiased samples both as to species and size of the local demersal fish abundance, may prove inaccurate and damaging in the long-term.

Acoustic methods can be used to either estimate population sizes of pelagic species directly or in conjunction with survey vessels when beam trawling for demersal fish. Engas & Vold Soldal (1992) believe trawl catch rates cannot be relied upon to provide representative estimates and any bias will therefore affect the equivalent acoustic estimates. This may be due to unrealistic requirements such as the confinement of a stock in an area small enough to be surveyed in a set time, at a required intensity, in mid-water not to close to the shore (MacLennan & Forbes 1987). Further assumptions are limited numbers of other species detected, the target strength of the species is accurately known, acceptable weather conditions and no response from the fish to the vessel. Fish densities estimated by horizontal beaming can be up to fifty times higher than vertical beaming due to boat avoidance creating large errors in final data (Kubecka & Wittingerova 1998). Although much interference may be apparent, Pope (1982) still believes the data gained may be valuable when setting precautionary catch levels.

Methods of tagging can be applied to gain imprecise levels of natural mortality (Shepherd 1988), main weaknesses being the sometimes over-expectant assumptions that need to be made. A fixed population with an equal capture rate and no change in catchability level, coinciding with no loss of marks or tags, all seems a little un-realistic. Peterson's closed population method cannot even test these assumptions whereas the Scnabel open population system can, but still with uncertainties. These methods are applied throughout the world indicating that they must work with certain species under perfect conditions. Uncertainties, as with many other techniques do not seem unique, but the methodology of tagging does seem to have greater assumptions than any other method applied to fisheries.

The choice of assessment type will depend on the biology of the species, the time scale required, the area and purpose of the assessment and any specific goal of the fisheries manager. This choice may be difficult as stock production models used for long-term management are frequently no better in the forecasting of the following years CPUE than is the previous years CPUE (Stocker & Hilborn 1981). Long-term assessments aid strategic decisions by managers, information such as maximum sustainable yield (MSY) can be estimated and relationships between stock and recruits can be found. Short-term assessments can reveal information on the likely catch in the next or following years (CPUE), as well as consequences of recruitment in the near future. The latter relates to the suggestion and tactics of long-term strategy. Describing of uncertainties in these strategies is of great importance to managers when weighing the benefits and losses of different techniques. Rosenberg & Restrepo (1994) suggest methods of analysing and assessing risk in management strategies implying that every possible analysis of risk should be undertaken.

Hilborn (1992) pinpoints three dominant approaches to fisheries stock assessment: the investigation into catch at age data, uninvolved models of biomass dynamics, and examination of length-frequency data. He suggests that these methods ignore what is known about the biology of the fish and tend to rely on single types of data. This point is of importance as natural mortality, assumed in many modals may increase via predation or reduced food sources causing large errors in calculations.

Age based methods such as Virtual population analysis (VPA), require catches recorded in numbers at age on an individual cohort basis to solve the exponential form of the catch equations (Kimura et al. 1984). The dependency of knowing the catch at age in numbers is a downfall as age data is costly and technically difficult to obtain. VPA or simpler cohort analysis needs data from various other sources, any of which could be bias or incorrect.

Catch in weight, natural and fishing mortality, weights at cohort, and proportion of mature fish are all required for cohort analysis. Although these methods are the most commonly applied to stock assessment, the large variety of necessary information will have any final say on the weakness of this technique. Interestingly, Agnew et al. (1998) believes that cohorts of certain species have differing dynamics, and therefore should be considered as different stocks. This would render total stock calculation models redundant, with very few other options available to fishery scientists this opinion seems to be alone.

Some typical problems arising with these methods includes the missing of year data, changes in survey techniques and age determination methodologies; Richards et al. (1997) suggests some graphical techniques to portray these uncertainties. The errors encountered in age structure data can to some extent be cancelled by using mean age calculations in the assessment models (Richards & Schnute 1998). These of course are statistical problems that may be lost in complicated calculations. Important and essentially undetectable problems arise with discard levels, the guessing of terminal fishing mortality, and predation mortality (Christensen 1996). The statistical problems can be corrected with the application of more accurate data collection, but these biological influences need highly intensive studies before a complete understanding can be hoped for. The effects of various percentage errors in the population of a year class, due to incorrect values of fishing mortality are shown in figure 1.



Figure 1: This graph plots percentage error of Ni (population of year class at the ith birthday), against cumulative fishing mortality. The under estimation of Ft (fishing mortality at the last age of a year class to which catch data are available) will result in guesses of Nt that are to small, overestimation has the reverse effect. Interestingly, as the cumulative fishing mortality increases errors in both Ft and Ni decrease. If the cumulative fishing mortality is greater than 2 and Ft can be estimated within the given range many users will find errors in Ni and Fi small enough to work with. Accurate estimations of Ni and Fi require careful choices of Ft if the cumulative fishing mortality is small. This case may arise when numbers of recruits to a year class is guessed from catches of partially recruited age groups. Similar graphs allow fishery scientists to produce the error range of their calculations that will aid assessment of their value. Source: Pope (1983)

When age data is sparse or the species cannot easily be aged, length based assessments are an alternative. Chen's (1997) comparison between age and length structured yield-per-recruit models showed length structured techniques better incorporated information observed from fisheries, but age structured gave more precise and conservative estimates of yield-per-recruit. This is the main reason why age structured models are chosen from the conservation perspective in fisheries management. The obvious difference between age and length is that age is a linear measure of time whereas length is non-linear. This makes data interpretations more difficult, more assumptions of growth reductions due to age must be made. Assumptions removed from a model increase accuracy, this is why age methods are preferred if feasible.

A potential strength of fishery science will be the adoption of multi-species models to fisheries that currently utilise single species methods. These models, although essential for future management purposes, seem unreliable and more imprecise than the currently used methods. They require more data that could lead to inaccurate assumptions, thus leaving fisheries in a worse state.

The key area that multi-species models address is predation. It is often assumed that fishing mortality alone is responsible for the variation in fish survival, but in some fisheries, losses to predation can exceed losses to fisheries (Bax 1998). This could indicate that assumptions of natural mortality in single species models are drastically misleading. Mertz & Myers (1997) point out that if bad estimations of natural mortality are used in calculations of cohort strength derived from catch data, the accuracy may be greatly corrupted. Pereiro (1995) supports that where species are not linked to a specific substratum natural mortality will always predominate over fishing mortality thus fishing mortality is not the subsidiary factor. Either way the addition of accurate natural mortality estimations into models must be welcomed.

This review has shown some major problems encountered when estimating populations from a fishery. Strengths seem sparse, maybe the biggest being that these techniques are the only available methods for estimating stock dynamics. Assessment techniques have strengths over each other and it is imperative the correct method is paired to its purpose.

Weaknesses seemed over bearing and many writers have tried to remove errors from previously presented models resulting in a claim that theirs is now the most accurate. Until data collection methods have improved there will always be inaccuracies in results. The addition of computer programs should aid time-consuming calculations allowing scientists to return to the field of study to uncover new methods of improving the currently used stock assessment techniques.

References
Anon. (1998). Improving fish stock assessments: Report of the committee on fish stock assessment methods. Ocean studies board, Commission on geosciences, environment, and resources, National research council. http/www.fishingnj.org/artasess.htm [on-line].
Agnew, D.J., Baranowski, R., Beddington, J.R., desClers, S., and Nolan, C.P. (1998). Approaches to assening stocks of Loligo gahi around the Falkland Islands. Fisheries Research, 35, 3, 155-169.
Bax, N.J. (1998). The significance and prediction of predation in marine fisheries. ICES J. Mar. Sci., 55, 6, 997-1030.
Chen, Y. (1997). A comparison study of age- and length-structured yield-per-recruit modals. Aquatic living resources, 10, 5, 271-280.
Christensen, V. (1996). Virtual population reality. Reviews in fish biology and fisheries, 6, 243-247. Clark, S.H. (1979). Application of bottom-trawl survey data to fish stock assessment. Fisheries, 4, 3, 9-15.
Collie, S.J. and Sissenwine, M.P. (1983). Estimating population size from relative abundance data measured with error. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 40, 11, 1871-1879.
Cortes, E. (1998). Demographic analysis as an aid in shark stock assessment and management. Fisheries Research, 39, 2, 199-208.
Engas, A. and Vold Soldal, A. (1992). Diurnal variations in bottom rawl catches of cod and haddock and their influence on abundance indicies. ICES J. Mar. Sci., 49, 89-95.
Freidland, K.D. and Reddin, D.G. (1994). Use of otolith morphology in stock discriminations of Atlantic salmon. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 51, 1, 91-98.
Hilborn, R. (1992). Current and future trends in fisheries stock assessment and management. South African journal of marine science, 12, 975-988.
Kimura, D.K., Balsiger, J.W., and Ito, D.H. (1984). Generalized stock reduction analysis. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 41, 9, 1325-1333.
Kubecka, R. and Wittingerova, M. (1998). Horizontal beaming as a crucial component of acoustic fish assessment in freshwater reservoirs. Fisheries Research, 35, 1-2, 99-106.
MacLennan, D.N. and Forbes, S.T. (1987). Acoustic methods for fish stock estimation. In Bailey, R.S. and Parrish, B.B. (Eds.). Developments in fisheries research in Scotland, pp 40-55. Fishing News Books Ltd, Farnham.
Mertz, G. and Myers, R.A. (1997). Influence of errors in natural mortality estimates in cohort analysis. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 54, 7, 1608-1612.
Mesnil, B. (1996). When discards survive: Accounting for survival of discards in fisheries assessments. Aquatic living services, 9, 3, 209-215.
Mohn, R. (1999). The retrospective problem in sequential population analysis: An investigation using cod fishery and simulated data. ICES J. Mar. Sci., 56, 4, 473-488.
Pereiro, J.A. (1995). Assessment and management of fish populations - A critical view. Scientia Marina, 59, 3-4, 653-660.
Pope, J.G. (1982). Background to scientific advice on fisheries management. MAFF Directorate of fisheies research labortory leaflet, 54, 27 pp.
Pope, J.G. (1983). An investigaton of the accuracy of virtual population analysis using cohort analysis. In Cushing, D.H. (Ed.). Key papers on fish populations, pp. 292-301. IRL Press, Oxford.
Richards, L.J. and Schnute, J.T. (1998). Modal complexity and catch-age analysis. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 55, 4, 949-957.
Richards, L.J., Schnute, J.T., and Olsen, N. (1997). Visualizing catch-age analysis: a case study. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 54, 7, 1646-1658.
Roff, D.A. (1983). Analysis of catch/effort data: A comparison of three methods. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 40, 9, 1496-1506.
Rose, G.A. (1997). The trouble with fisheries science. Reviews in fish biology and fisheries, 7, 365-370.
Rosenberg, A.A. and Restrepo, V.R. (1994). Uncertainty and risk-evaluation in stock assessment advice for US marine fisheries. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 51, 12, 2715-2720.
Shepherd, J.G. (1988). Fish stock assessments and their data requirements. In Gulland, J.A. (Ed.). Fish population dynamics, pp. 35-62. John Wiley & Sons Ltd, Chichester.
Stocker, M. and Hilborn, R. (1981). Short-term forcasting in marine fish stocks. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 38, 1247-1254.
Walters, C.J. and Ludwig, D. (1981). Effects of measurement errors on the assessment of stock-recruitment relationships. Can. J. Fish. Aquat. Sci., 38, 704-710.




The He-She of the British Coast

The aquatic world is amazing and continually throws up amazing creatures and their habits. Maybe unlike humans many aquatic animals have had to adapt dramatically to their changing environment. Over many thousands of years species have evolved as their local environments have become overcrowded or food depleted. TV documentaries leave most people relating these odd adaptations to ugly looking deep sea species or the beauties of the coral reefs, however, one of my favourite British coastal species have evolved a great method that ensures successful yearly recruitment (with feeding this is what the majority of the animal kingdom live for).

The Gilthead Bream, commonly referred to as dorade, dorada or orata, is a relatively plain looking silver fish. It grows to about 8kg and can have a life span of about 12 years. When you see one in your local fishmongers take a look at its set of small sharp teeth that help it deal with its main diet of oysters and other bi-valves. As it is a fairly solitary species that lives in shallow insure waters it avoids the pressure of commercial fishing, but it is however one of the most successfully farmed Mediterranean species. Pretty plain in all, oh yes one other point, they are all born as males then turn into females when needed! Oh yes, not plain anymore. The Gilthead Bream is a protandrous hermaphrodite; they are born with the sexual characteristics of a male, but when they mature, after about 3 years (800grm-1kg), a proportion of the males, only the required number, revert from male to female and start producing ova so the successful cycle continues. As farmed Gilthead Bream are usually harvested at sizes between 4-800grms it is very rare to see a mature specimen, however, I have a couple of times experienced boxes of sexually mature males. The size of milt production within a roundfish is much smaller than ova production within females. The Gilthead Bream, therefore, lends itself perfectly to cultivation.

As a point of note the Black Sea Bream, probably the most commonly seen wild bream on an English fishmonger’s slab, offers the complete opposite; they are protogynous hermaphrodites starting life as females then reverting to males.

Monday, 5 October 2009

The English Channel Vs. The South West - Might be Sole Destroying

I find myself discussing the Dover Sole with my customer’s on a daily basis. Those who know me are only too aware I can talk about fish all day, not the cooking or the selling, but the biology and capture. This is what really floats my boat so when I am questioned as to “why the Dover Sole are £6 per kilo cheaper in the fishmongers in South Kensington” or “£8 per kilo cheaper at the local farmers market” a response is required. Unfortunately those that ask such questions are not usually in the market for an answer, let alone a Dover, so my structured scientific responses generally fall on deaf ears. However, if you are interested read on.


A couple of years ago we tried selling Dover Sole caught from the English channel opposed to our usual South West supply. Why? They were offered to us cheaper through a Billingsgate trader. How strange it was when our regulars starting coming back saying the Dover Sole were not right, tasted odd, strange texture, odd flavour. Never again have we sold them, but me being me i wasn’t happy not knowing so I started my investigations. My own taste tests and comparisons of texture and flavour confirmed a distinct difference. By no means were the channel Dovers (CD) bad and if you had never tried the alternative there would be no need to change, but the South West Dovers (SWD) certainly had the superior taste and texture. But why so different when they are the same species? Well feeding grounds are the key. Dover Sole are a species of flatfish and flatfish spend the majority of their life as benthic (bottom) dwellers and have made it their niche to feed from these areas. We also know flatfish adapt to the substrate they live on which in the case of the SWD and CD is very different. The layman’s eye could not spot the difference between the external appearances or the flesh differences of channel Bass and Cornish Bass; however, the visual differences between the Dovers are so striking it takes little expertise to distinguish between them.


These pictures show the skin on and skin off difference between SWD and CD. In all the pictures the SWD appear at the top. With the skin on a difference is quite apparent. The CD is a much darker fish opposed to the lighter sandy colour of the SWD. Sometimes the CD can appear almost black in colour. This difference is a direct result of the substrate the respective fish reside on. One of the key defence mechanisms of the flatfish is camouflage with pigments in their skin changing colour to suit their environment. The very dark almost black colour suggests a muddy substrate; the English Channel is the busiest shipping lane in the world, maybe the deposits from these vessels may have some influence? When skinned the SWD yields a slight pinky or whitish pink flesh whereas the CD offers a light grey coloured veiny flesh. In most cases the SWD flesh also appears firmer to the touch. Unlike the outer skin the flesh colour is directly correlated to the chosen feed and level of gamete production. Neither of the photographed fish was in spawn so we can discount the latter as being influential in this example. Additionally, as fish flesh ages it looses its colour. In my experience a very high number of CD yield a grey flesh no matter the time scale of capture.


So is it just me that believes there is a difference? I believe not. The wholesale price of south west Dovers can be up to 78% higher than channel Dovers on the same given day. So when I am told there is no discernible difference between the products why the huge difference in price? Conversely, why doesn’t the majority of London’s top restaurants use channel Dovers? Why do they persist on paying a premium for a product they can get cheaper elsewhere? The answer, well, it is not the same product. The farmers' market trader will be selling his CD cheaper than I am buying my SWD but this I have to suffer as I will never again change my buying policies to turn a cheeky profit.

Wednesday, 30 September 2009

The Caviar Mystery

A few percentage of people have tasted the highest quality sturgeon caviar, only few people appreciate the finest caviar, most people are confused by the variations of caviar, all are shocked by the price of caviar.

A short time ago I had never tasted any caviar then as luck would have it I was invited to a tasting. The then London based Kaspia caviar rep took my colleague and I aside and led us through the full range of caviars available to the man on the street. This amazing experience opened my eyes to the breathtaking tastes and variations caviar has to offer. For a while we sold these products very successfully until a 60% price rise over a period of 4 months ended our dealings. However, over the 2 years of selling caviar I made it my business to understand the product I was selling and realised how confusing outlets can make it when selling caviar. My research led me to Harrods, selling caviar from Kazakhstan as Russian (back tracked when I pointed out bar code labelling), Fortnum & Mason, selling Iranian caviar over 2 years old, Selfridges, who sold one of our customers farmed caviar as wild and the best of all a small polish deli in Streatham offering 500g of Iranian Beluga for £150 – true retail value nearer to £4000. So all very confusing, but when such a mysterious high valued product is for sale some unscrupulous trading will always happen.

Caviar from where?

Firstly the harvest and sale of black caviar was banned in Russia from August 1, 2007, apart for scientific research. At the time the species was in serious decline, even threatened with extinction. Anyone that attempts to sell you Russian caviar in a store or restaurant is either misleading you or selling an illegal product.

Since the cessation of Russian caviar supply the Iranian wild caviar is now deemed the finest available. Additionally, three other countries with Caspian Sea coast lines harvest high quality wild caviar; Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan, and eastern Azerbaijan. Of these Azerbaijan is deemed as producing the highest quality. From here we move to farmed caviars produced to a high quality in France and Italy and to a lesser extent in Bulgaria and I understand there is now organically farmed Spanish caviar available.

Varieties of Sturgeon Caviar

Probably the most understood part of the caviar mystery is the names of the predominant species. Everybody knows the name beluga, the largest of the sturgeon, producing the largest egg. Beluga is deemed the finest of all the caviars, something I whole heartily agree with. Oscietra is thought of as the second largest of the Caspian sturgeon that produces three varieties of egg. However, the reason it produces a number of coloured eggs is that Oscietra is more of a description of a type of caviar rather than being limited to the caviar of one single species. Although more often than not it tends to mean the caviar of the Russian Sturgeon (
Acipenser gueldenstaedtii), several other sturgeon produce similar small grained nutty flavoured eggs which are also categorised and sold as osetra caviar. This is the reason why osetra caviar has a reputation for being somewhat variable in colour, flavour and size. We recognise the eggs as the dark, or original for ease of description, the golden Oscietra, and the most sought after of all the caviars the white/golden or better known as Almas. The third of the wild Caspian sturgeon is the Sevruga which produces a much smaller saltier egg deemed the finest of the canopy dressing by many. Those that champion the cause of farmed or cultivated seafood products will argue that there is little difference in taste between produced and the wild eggs. There is such an amazing difference in taste it is overwhelming. From the clean crisp tantalising taste of the golden Oscietra to the thick muddy, almost farmed trout taste, of the farmed Baeri. Granted, if you have not had the chance to taste the upper echelons you may be happy with the inferior option, but I promise once you have tasted the real black there ain’t no going back. So in ascending order of quality, and unsurprisingly price, these are the farmed species of available caviar: Baeri, Baccari, White Sturgeon, Bassetra, Farmed Oscietra.

The Sales Pitch

When caviar was in abundance, because many sized fish were available for capture, their eggs could be graded into distinct sizes. As with any over exploited species the harvest size ultimately reduces and as this fish is being targeted for just its roe it will be caught as soon as it reaches maturity. This means all roe from a single species will now generally be of one size. The addition on tins or jars of grade sizes such as x, xx and xxx, and terms such as Royal, Private Reserve, Imperial and Premium are generally nonsense sales pitches. Historically they had relevance when producing caviar for the Russian czars, but now have no relevance if only for squeezing that extra penny from the American tourists shopping in London’s top stores. Do not be misled by this labeling and just ignore any salesman’s pitch that uses it.

The Important part

Reading this may have tempted you into buying and trying caviar. You may already indulge occasionally or maybe you have it for second course breakfast, after porridge oats, like the boss of one of our customers (absolutely true). What ever bracket you fall into it is an expensive luxury, one that you probably hand on heart know little about. There is one critical piece of information you need to understand before you hand you money over. Something that will distinguish you from the man in front. On the rear of every jar is a small set of serial numbers that outlines everything you need to know.

HUS/W/IR/2009/XXXX/YYYY

Firstly is the Standard species code: CITES has determined three-letter codes for the identification of sturgeon and paddlefish species, hybrids and mixed species. 'HUS', for example, is the standard species code for Beluga Huso huso.

Acipenser baerii: Siberian Sturgeon BAE
Acipenser baerii baicalensis: Baikal Sturgeon BAI
Acipenser gueldenstaedtii: Russian Sturgeon GUE (mainly Oscietra)
Acipenser naccarii: Adriatic Sturgeon (Italian Sturgeon) NAC
Acipenser oxyrhynchus: Atlantic Sturgeon OXY
Acipenser persicus: Persian Sturgeon PER
Acipenser ruthenus: Sterlet RUT
Acipenser sinensis: Chinese Sturgeon SIN
Acipenser stellatus: Stellate Sturgeon STE (Sevruga)
Acipenser sturio: Common Sturgeon (Baltic Sturgeon) STU
Acipenser transmontanus:White Sturgeon TRA
Huso huso: Giant sturgeon (Beluga, Great Sturgeon) HUS
Mixed species (for 'pressed' caviar exclusively) MIX

Second is the hugely important source code
Either ‘W’ for wild of ‘C’ for captive bred or farmed in real terms

Thirdly Country of Origin
This is the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) two-letter code for the country of origin, e.g. RU for the Russian Federation.
AZ – Azerbaijan
BG – Bulagia
FR – France
IR - Iran
IT – Italy
KZ – Kazakstan
RU – Russia
UZ – Uzbekistan

Fourthly the year of harvest.

Fifth is Official registration code of the processing plant: Each exporting country should establish a national registration system for processing plants, with official registration codes assigned to each. This number corresponds to that code. This code could be prefixed with a country code if the product has been re-packaged.

Last is the Lot identification number: This is a number that corresponds to information related to the caviar tracking system used by the processing or re-packaging plant.

So there it is - Your checklist

Firstly the species matches what is on the tin to the serial number. Most expensive will be Almas, then Beluga, then the Golden Oscietra followed by Oscietra or Sevruga depending on harvest levels. As for farmed the Oscietra will always be the highest valued followed by the white sturgeon. I suggest you forget the rest.
Wild or captive bred? Check as this will alter the price by up to 50% and is the most common area you will be misled.
You can now tell its origins. For reference the most expensive will be from IR, followed by AZ, then the UZ and TZ. Then the farmed - probably IT, then FR and finally BU. If it says RU it is incorrectly labeled.
The year of harvest is the last point of interest. Wild is harvested twice a year. Around February and then again in October. There is no definition as to which harvest this will be, however, NEVER buy caviar with a harvest date that isn’t in the current year. It has a shelf life, a short one, so be careful as it can be a costly error.

Enjoy your tasting and remember – always eat your caviar from the back of a mother of pearl spoon accompanied by a glass of high quality pink champagne.

Monday, 28 September 2009

The Sushi Sashimi Confusion - Can you tell the difference between fresh and old?

It would seem everybody knows best when it comes to buying fish, especially when they want to eat it raw. Mrs X, who could not tell the difference between a fish caught last night too a fish a week old or previously frozen all of a sudden has Japanese routes and is the utmost knowledge on sashimi! We are regularly told that fish in London is not fresh enough to eat raw; then these people will head to itsu, prêt or even Marks & Spencer to purchase a pre-pack sushi with a use by date. I do not profess to be an expert in the art of sushi and sashimi, but I have undertaken the making and eating of raw fish to levels of success. In this blog I will tell you what I tell my customers on a daily basis hoping it will help you when buying fish.


What species?

Firstly the fish you use does need to be the correct species to produce quality sushi or sashimi. Bear in mind a number of fish you would eat in Japanese restaurants do not frequent British or European shores. I therefore suggest not buying or using the following fish if making your own sashimi: Yellow Tail, Surf Clam, Abalone and Sea Urchin (European species very different to Asian). The British Isles does yield some great species that are suitable for Japanese cuisine: salmon, sea bass, brill, mackerel, sardine, eel, crab (cooked), squid, octopus, shrimp, sea bream, scallops and lemon sole. Tuna is commonly used and offers a good flavour due to it being imported into the UK at levels of high quality.


What Quality?

So you are now knowledgeable enough on what species too look for at your fishmonger, but what are you looking for with regards freshness? Firstly don’t bother going through the ‘what’s fresh enough to eat raw today’ or ‘what is the best day to buy fresh fish’ scenarios with the monger. More often than not they will have as much clue as you and will then tend to bluff their way through trying to sell you what they want. Instead use that time to cast your eye across the counter. See what looks fresh – shiny and appealing – does it look still alive? You need to become confident to decide on your own just by looking.


Apart from salmon, which is normally sold as fillet, and tuna that normally enters the country in large boneless pieces, avoid buying fillets of the fish species mentioned above. They have been filleted for a reason – normally to disguise aging - discoloured grey skin, clouded eyes, soft flesh, white gills and so on. This is a usual method undertaken by supermarkets that normally receive their fish in an already deteriorating condition. I have also seen many circumstances of this at fishmongers across Europe. However, don’t be confused by the various white fish fillets such as cod, haddock, Pollack and plaice you will see on the slab. These have been filleted at sea and this is the best way to keep such species in peak condition (they do not have an application in sashimi).



Salmon & Tuna

In the UK these are the two most commonly used fish for homemade sashimi. It may surprise you to hear that there are 6 grades of yellow fin tuna, with ‘1’ being the finest. I am confident you would never have seen anything above a 2/3 anywhere in the UK. That doesn’t mean to say grades 2 and 3 are not of high enough quality to eat raw, however, the consistency does vary dramatically. Personally I have a hatred of selling tuna. The quality is inconsistent, the supply has no continuity and the wastage is higher that any other product. I do foresee a huge reduction of tuna available to our markets as the value of yellow fin rockets alongside the withdrawal of the blufin. Maybe we will not have to discuss tuna at all very soon (fingers crossed). When looking for tuna make sure it is firm and has as little sinew as possible as this will make thin slicing very difficult. It mush have NO smell at all and be appealing to the eye. Colours will vary and in my opinion the slightly darker cuts are better. Try to avoid the bright pink varieties as some unscrupulous fish traders (recorded in areas of Spain) will dye grey tuna too red. Avoid grey or brown coloured tuna. When on a slab it can be a little more difficult to recognise between qualities of salmon as so many variations are available. Again does it appeal to the eye? Bright and shiny, preferably scales on the skin (my reasoning for this is that higher quality whole salmon arrive in peak condition which includes firm skin - lower quality soft fleshed salmon will have lost a lot of scales). Look and see how well has it been pin boned. Do not be misled into thinking that because there are tears along the pin bone line the fish is old. On the contrary. The fresher the fish, this includes all species, the harder it is to remove pin bones – fact. This does not mean a competent boner cannot remove pin bones without tearing the flesh, but my point is that maybe not everything you see is immediately obvious so do not jump to conclusions. Farmed salmon does seem to apply itself better to sashimi due to its slightly higher fat content (if you get a chance to try wild salmon as sashimi it is amazing). There is no reason as why you could not use farmed organic salmon as a replacement if you are able to find a fresh enough product – I haven’t as yet. Farmed salmon is a fairly cheap product so you do get what you pay for. Most importantly it must not smell at all. Lastly ask for it to be skinned but then take it home to slice yourself as it is easy to do and it is good to practice.




Note the brightly coloured appealing flesh. Avoided faded or patchy flesh usually discoloured by ice damage or aging. Note the white fat lines of the farmed salmon


Sea Bass & Sea Bream

These two species are great for sashimi with their firm whitish/grey flesh with a slight oil content. Wild sea bass will yield the best product and wild gilthead bream, if they can be found, would be equally as good. Farmed gilthead bream, if fresh, are also very good as they are oilier still – farmed bass is a product I would avoid cooked or raw. The points to look for, in order, when buying these fish: firm flesh, shiny skin, fish still in rigor-mortis, red odourless gills, slim not a large stomach, bright eyes. I do not hold clear eyes as the defining freshness factor although it is a helpful guide. Ask your fishmonger to fillet and skin your fish, but I would suggest you leave the pin bones in as they will tear the fish to ribbons if removed. When you get your fillets home slice them as a D-Cut removing the bones as and when you find them. An important tip is that black bream, couches bream, rays bream and red bream do not offer the same type of flesh as the Gilthead Bream.




Bright and shiny body and stunning eyes - all key to look for

Gilthead Bream (farmed above, wild below) See how the body of a fresh fish shines


Brill & lemon Sole

The brill is a great fish for sashimi if found at a high enough quality. We have also found many of our Japanese customers taking to lemon sole as an alternative as they are slightly smaller. The brill, however, is the better of the two as it yields a slightly off white/grey flesh not unlike the bass. Make sure the fishmonger leaves the fin ray ends when he skins the fish as they are a delicacy in Japanese cuisine. Again the same rules apply when choosing your fish with most emphasis put on flesh firmness. The eyes of flatfish, due to the size, discolour very quickly so can not really be used as an indication. Also the gills are small and obscured so yield little helpful information on freshness.



Stunningly fresh brill in rigor-mortis. See what beautiful light brown colour a fresh fish offers



Amazing golden Cornish lemon soles - exactly what to look for. Older fish will grey very quickly.


Mackerel & Sardines

Some of the hardest fish to find are fresh mackerel and sardines. The natural colour of the raw flesh should be dark reddish, however, diet and spawning seasons affect the colour dramatically. Whitish flesh is common and does not mean the fish is old, but is not quite so good for sashimi. Bear in mind it is impossible for the fishmonger to know the flesh colour of the fish before he fillets them. A fresh mackerel can be spotted a mile off. Stiff from head to tail, green flashing across the flanks, nice red gills and lovely firm flesh. They are the true indication of a fishmonger’s quality therefore always start by looking at them as this will give a good indication of the quality he buys. With mackerel you do get what you pay for. Although they are deemed as a cheap fish, prices ranging from 2.80 to 9.95 per kilo, you really will get rubbish if you pay less than 6.95. Avoid the small watery looking fish as these are from trawled Scottish fisheries and sold by supermarkets and mongers as they have a very cheap wholesale price. Try and find large line caught fish as these will be days fresher and much meatier.





Lovely big hook and line caught mackerel still offering their green flanks



Scallops

For sashimi always go for live in the shell and learn to cut them out just before you use them as the resulting taste is phenomenal. You may be able to buy diver caught scallops, although expensive, from good fishmongers or smaller trawl collected scallops in their shells in dozens by pre ordering. Some pre cut scallops are good enough for sashimi but why take the risk. Pre-plan, order in advance, and end up with the best product. One point to note is that many people believe a scallop should be a large plump white piece of meat. In fact the natural colour of a scallop is an off whitish grey. The plump white scallop you sometimes see is water soaked to add weight like the chicken breast in Tesco – extra weight equals money – avoid at all costs.




Huge Scottish diver caught scallops



Cephalopods – Octopus and Squid

Cooked Octopus and raw squid are commonly used in sashimi and sushi. Both are caught inshore from the English coast thus good quality should be available. Squid and octopus have green and blue eyes respectively and are a very good indication of extreme freshness. Additional with the English species, the whiter the flesh the better the quality. If the flesh is pinking, usually the wings on a squid or the legs of the octopus, this means it is on the turn and should be avoided. Look again for firmness as this is key to freshness. Have you fishmonger clean the inside and remove the beak but do not automatically have it skinned as cephalopod skin does offer a cheeky and unusual alternative flavour to the dish.





The beautiful blue eye of a stunningly fresh Cornish octopus


Beautiful pure white jigged squid. Note the colour still in the eyes.


Crab

Usually cooked when served as sushi so either buy a live crab and cook it yourself or purchase hand picked un-pasteurised un-frozen white meat. Buying a live crab does not always mean quality as the condition varies throughout the year. Avoid hen crabs in January through to the end of May and cock crabs from September through to the end of December. A very top tip is that if you are given the choice pick a crab with barnacles on the shell. Barnacles reside in food rich areas that high quality crabs benefit from. If buying ready cooked meat make sure it offers 3 or more days shelf life. The maximum shelf life fresh un-pasteurised meat should offer is 5 days so any longer it is either old or pasteurised being sold as fresh.


So that is all very straight forward – or is it? How about the frozen debate? There seems to be no guidelines that relate to what quantifies sushi grade fish. In the US there is some confusion regarding the “parasite destruction guarantee, which is accomplished by 'freezing and storing seafood at -4°F (-20°C) or below for 7 days (total time), or freezing at -31°F (-35°C) or below until solid and storing at -31°F (-35°C) or below for 15 hours, or freezing at -31°F (-35°C) or below until solid and storing at -4°F (-20°C) or below for 24 hours' which is sufficient to kill parasites” (ref http://www.sushifaq.com/sushi-grade-fish.htm). There seems no mention of this in any British guidelines. I am unsure quite how relevant it is as the Japanese have been eating raw fish many months before freezers were invented!! Maybe I can squeeze a blog post on this in the future.

Monday, 21 September 2009

Salmon is the Winner

Seafish’s recent survey has shown we are all eating nearly twice as much salmon in the UK compared to its nearest rival tuna. This, I imagine, is the result of salmon being both the cheapest available fish and the most readily available in the supermarkets. As mentioned tuna is second, but this may reduce in the next survey with the recent bad press received from the ‘end of the line documentary’. Third and forth are cod and haddock respectively – the countries two favourite cuts. Amazingly Pollack has climbed into the top ten, in at number eight. Its success is most likely due to the championing of this fish by celebrity chefs such like Hugh Fearnly. Seriously though, once you have tasted it you won’t have it again, especially as its increase in popularity has brought the price almost level to haddock (a nice fish).



The list is as follows:


Species

Value (£m)

Volume (tonnes)

Salmon

607.3

49078

Tuna

356.2

74646

Cod

298.7

38294

Haddock

208.8

22591

Warmwater Prawns

178.4

14244

Coldwater Prawns

164.7

17448

Mackerel

92.0

15213

Pollack

66.6

13104

Scampi

55.8

5728

Trout

41.3

4389



Very different scenario in Chelsea with the following being our top ten sellers. The figures would not be accurate so I give you just a species order.


Wild Sea Bass

Cod

Salmon

Dover Sole

Lemon Sole

Atlantic Halibut

Native Lobster

Picked White Crab meat

Monkfish

Warmwater Prawns